The clean beauty movement has transformed consumer expectations, creating demand for products free from ingredients perceived as harmful or unnecessary. However, the movement also faces criticism for sometimes prioritizing perception over science, avoiding effective ingredients based on fear rather than evidence. Within this context, Neora’s “clean meets performance” philosophy attempts to balance safety concerns with efficacy requirements—refusing to compromise on either dimension.
“We are very transparent in our business practices and how we formulate our products,” states Amber Olson Rourke. This transparency extends to explaining why ingredients make it into formulations and what role each plays. The selection process begins with identifying customer needs, then searching for ingredients that address those needs while meeting strict safety criteria. This methodical approach differs from simply following clean beauty trends or avoiding ingredient lists compiled by advocacy groups.
The process starts with understanding specific skin concerns. Rather than formulating around trending ingredients, Neora identifies problems customers face and seeks optimal solutions. “We understand the problem our customer is facing. We identify the gap, market trend, and then we find the best labs,” Olson Rourke explains. This problem-first approach ensures that products address genuine needs rather than capitalizing on ingredient popularity.
Laboratory partnership selection plays a crucial role in ingredient sourcing. Not all cosmetic laboratories maintain equivalent standards for ingredient purity, sourcing verification, or quality control. Neora works with facilities that can provide documentation about ingredient origins, processing methods, and quality testing. This diligence ensures that ingredients not only appear clean on paper but actually meet purity standards in practice.
Ingredient purity affects both safety and efficacy. Many beauty ingredients exist in multiple grades with varying purity levels and processing methods. Lower-grade versions might contain contaminants or impurities that compromise both performance and safety. Pharmaceutical-grade ingredients cost more but offer assurance that formulations contain exactly what labels indicate without unwanted additives. This attention to ingredient quality represents an investment that budget-conscious brands might skip.
The marine collagen versus bovine collagen decision exemplifies how Neora balances multiple considerations in ingredient selection. Marine collagen offers superior absorption and aligns with sustainability values, but costs more and requires more complex sourcing. Bovine collagen would serve adequately from a functional perspective and simplify supply chains. Choosing marine collagen reflects commitment to selecting optimal ingredients even when easier alternatives exist.
Sustainability considerations increasingly influence ingredient selection across the beauty industry. Consumers want to know that ingredients come from renewable sources, that harvesting doesn’t harm ecosystems, and that workers involved in production receive fair treatment. These concerns extend beyond environmental activism to encompass basic ethics about how business operates. Brands that ignore sustainability issues risk alienating customers who increasingly make purchasing decisions based on values alignment.
The company avoids certain ingredients based on safety concerns rather than simply following clean beauty trend lists. Some ingredients commonly flagged by clean beauty advocates actually pose minimal risk at concentrations used in cosmetics. Conversely, some “natural” ingredients can cause irritation or sensitivity despite their botanical origins. Neora’s approach involves evaluating actual risk profiles rather than making decisions based on ingredient reputation alone.
Harsh acids represent one category that Neora limits in formulations. While acids can deliver visible results quickly, they also compromise skin’s barrier function and increase sensitivity. The company prefers ingredients that support natural skin processes rather than forcing rapid changes through aggressive chemical action. This gentler approach might produce results more gradually, but it better serves long-term skin health.
Artificial fragrances provide another example of ingredients avoided due to safety and sensitivity concerns. Fragrance compounds frequently cause reactions in sensitive individuals, and their inclusion serves cosmetic rather than functional purposes. Neora formulates without unnecessary fragrances, allowing products to smell like their ingredient profiles rather than masking natural scents with synthetic additions. This decision reflects prioritization of function over sensory appeal when the two conflict.
The multibenefit philosophy influences ingredient selection by requiring components that deliver multiple effects. Rather than using separate ingredients for hydration, antioxidant protection, and texture improvement, formulations seek ingredients that address multiple needs simultaneously. This approach creates synergies where ingredients amplify each other’s effects rather than simply coexisting in a formulation. Achieving these synergies requires deep understanding of how components interact—knowledge that develops through patient formulation and testing.
Natural doesn’t automatically mean better, despite clean beauty movement emphasis on botanical ingredients. Some synthetic ingredients outperform natural alternatives in stability, efficacy, or safety profiles. Some natural ingredients cause more reactions than synthetic counterparts. Neora evaluates each ingredient individually based on performance and safety rather than reflexively preferring natural or synthetic options. This pragmatic approach prioritizes results over ingredient origin stories.
Concentration levels matter as much as ingredient selection. Even beneficial ingredients can cause problems at excessive concentrations, while potentially concerning ingredients might pose minimal risk at very low levels. Formulation requires careful balancing of concentrations to maximize benefits while minimizing any potential drawbacks. This optimization takes time and testing—another reason why Neora’s patient development process produces better results than rushed formulation.
The ingredient selection process continues evolving as new research emerges and new components become available. Skincare science advances continuously, revealing new insights about how ingredients work and how to optimize their delivery. Companies committed to excellence must stay current with these developments, incorporating beneficial innovations while maintaining core principles about safety and efficacy.